...Ecuador!
Now being almost a week in this country thereīs some things to write about and share.
Initially being in Ecuadorīs capital Quito to get used to the altitude (is at 2850 m) and getting a little used to using my few words of Spanish I have left after about three days for the countryside.
The first part was still traveling on kind of normal roads, at somewhat high elevations perhaps, along the Panamericana. This stretch is also called the avenue of volcanos. Even though the weather didnīt permit much view, I saw one huge volcano dominating the area. After switching buses in a bigger town I get off the main track and I seem to be the only (western for sure) foreigner. Arriving at a rather small indio village I have a hard time to find the only "hotel" but this just is another practice for my Spanish.
While walking around I find a lot of friendly looking (and sometimes talking) people. Some guys call me over to a bar and I try a little chat. After the "merienda" (Ecuadorian set dinner) the town seems to close down pretty fast... perhaps because of the morning market, which I visit of course! Thereīs lots of food stalls (to eat and buy) and I shop for some warm clothes. The reason is not only the rather cold night temperatures in the highlands but especially a planned volcano-climb.
But first I head off on a pour road to an even smaller and remoter village, now at 3850 m. The road and views are fascinating and even more the view from the crater rim (where the viollage is) down to the crater laguna. Really huge. After an icy night (I havenīt seen so many stars before, probably because of the vicinity to the equator) I walk around the rim and then a steep trail down the rim of the crater to some small village. It is not so easy to find the way (twice I have to climb back up... ) and even a selfmade guide leads me to the wrong village. To finish I had to hike down a steep canyon before climbing up again for about an hour in strong sun.
The evening already I notice that my skin is not any more in the best condition, especially on forehead and nose :(
Can you imagine a ride on a roller coaster for about 2 hours? Thatīs what my return trip from this village was: The only buses leading back to civilization leave at 3 or 4 am, so I decide to go for the milk truck: A small truck which stops at every second corner to pick up about one or two buckets of milk from locals living there. The road is not worth calling it such and I have to stand on the loading platform and holding tightly on the railing while the vehicle is going up and down and sideways through and around potholes. Well, an experience! And not to forget all the dust and wind.
Now Iīm back to civilization and preparing for this volcano climb. More news about a meeting at the El Chaupi turnoff from the Ecuadorian Panamericana will follow then.
Enjoy reading,
Gunther
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How to climb a volcano can start different ways, we decided to meet up at the Panamericana, near the exit for El Chaupi. This is the village close to Iliniza Norte.
So I got on a bus (needed to stop one on the Panamericana at Latacunga) and told the driver to be dropped off at the mentioned exit. This was still no big problem, but then I had to hope that the driver decided for the right turnoff... because I was supposed to meet a friend at exactly this place: at night 21h!
Luckily his driver new of the same place/exit and the first condition was met to begin our climb the next morning. Well, after some difficulties to find accomodation (reserved lodge was closed already) we found an even cheaper one, owned by friendly people.
The climb then wa split into two days: first day hiking from the village at approx. 2800 m to a refuge close to the summit. (4600 m) which was already a long day of uphill walking... but the weather was fine. Up there we had to spend the night (no heating, below zero). After minor problems with the high altitude (headache) I manage to climb the summit of 5126 m of Iliniza Norte! We go together with another group who have a guide, which is good because literally some climbing is essential... The last meters were quite challenging! But the views were great in the morning (we start with dawn) and rewarding. Afterwards we have to return to the refuge and pick our backpacks before leaving for the village, which makes it a really long day.
Well, a few days rest in Quito were nice then before I started off northbound of Quito: destination Laguna de Cuicocha. It was a perfect 3 1/2 h walk around the rim of the laguna, then I need to hike another 6 1/2 km to the road where I can catch a bus. This is just a dusty road and leads (only 40 km but takes 2 1/2 h) through cloud forest at higher altitudes before it goes down to lower land where Apuela is (below 2000 m). Initially I have trouble finding the accomodation I am looking for (close to the hot springs), but some shopowner of this remote tiny village tells me where to find them. I change my hostal and relax 1 1/2 days in nice climate and hot pools! I seem to need some rest, because I sleep a lot!
Next I planed another volcano ascent and need to return to the main highlands via this interesting bus ride. I meet a friend in Ibarra, from where we are heading towards a village (all locals look at us like the most strange people!) called La Esperanza. This is at approx. 2600 m, which means we have to climb some 2000 m to reach the summit of Imbabura at 4600 m. This is our intention, but we are not sure if we will manage, especially as we will have to do so in only one day, because there is no refuge close to the top... The ascend is really extremely steep and takes about 5 1/2 h until we finally reach the summit, unfortunately with no view because of clouds. The plants around there ae pretty interesting, but the last 200 - 300 m require extensive climbing and sometimes leave the impression that it is a bit dangerous, but no way around! -- Returning to the village where we sleep is a rather exhausting long walk, down the steep slopes of volcan Imbabura. Eventually we have returned after almost 10 h in total with breaks... And are looking forward to a shower because of all the dust that is in the air because of the dry soil and strong winds.
Today was a rather relaxing day (necessary) before I try to catch an ancient train to the coast... the result of which will follow later!
Gunther
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During my trip to the coast (via oldfashioned train on not any more comercially used train tracks - you can ride on the roof) and along the coast I have of course seen and as well experienced interesting things.
First part I went by small boats (30 people cramped in a wooden boat) which went through mangrove forest which is still alive along the northern part of the coast. Further traveling is by bus only, but most areas didnīt attract me too much and all the time I was the only tourist. This is nice for a while until youīre sick of only being by yourself and being like a freak everyone is looking at like I was from Mars...
So luckily further south I bumped into another traveler and we spent a couple of days together traveling and enjoying where the place was nice. Especially the Machalilla National Park was great: sleeping in a basic hut together with the local people, eating with (some of) them and then riding on horses to the primary cloud forest. Thereīs plenty of amazing plants to see and the guide did a good job explaining stuff. OK, initially I had some difficulties with my horse, but what should I expect from my first day on a horse? And then it was a long day, something like 8 hours.
While traveling in many buses I have seen things like people entering the bus only todo some promocion for new products and trying to sell them... and this with the crazy drivers and the level of noise in buses there! Apart from that many drivers seem to like doing races with their buses, not caring that passengers want to travel safe... I saw myself quite close to going down a steep valley off the road: Only because a driver tried to pass another bus on the right side (but driving is like in Europe/US) while going to fast in a turn with poor pavement and then traffic from the other direction came........ Well I was lucky and got off at the next possibility after that incident.
Now Iīm back to the Highlands (Riobamba) and it seems the rainy season has finally started. But they say in the mornings itīs nice.
Weīll see,
Gunther
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After leavin Riobamba I was heading for Baņos, northeast of Riobamba. This I accomplished not by simply taking a bus (which is going via a detour to north first) but rather by walking along along a road which was destroyed by the volcano Tungurahua.
In places the road is just cut off by lava previously going down the slopes of the volcano. In these places there is a more or less deap valley now, which has to be crossed by emergency bridges (in the beginning there were some) or climbing down the valley and crossing the little river before reaching the old road again. Funny place, all people have been evacuated but some of them returned to their properties and live there again. But not much life is seen and of course no vehicals!
After these 5 1/2 h of walking (and a short ride on a bus) I reached a nice little town (Baņos) where finally much more is going on: Ecuadorian and a few foreign tourists frequent the many bars and restaurants, apart from that there is hot springs which invite to let the day pass by in a relaxing way! Also the climate is moderate, with sometimes rain unfortuantely. I bump into a friend from earlier during my trip and together with other people we have fun until the late night. This almost hasnīt been possible in the other places before, so I enjoy the more!
Via a road which partly goes through jungle in the lowlands (called Oriente) I reach after 1 1/2 days busride another village with hot pools (again in the mountains) called Papallacta. Thereīs not much to do except from enjoying the many pools of various temperatures. From there on I head to Quito and change buses (in the huge busterminal) to Otavalo, where during the morning after a market (mainly aimed for tourists but also there is a rather bustling vegetable and meat market) takes place. Although rainy in the evening again (normal during the rainy saison) it is a nice morning with great weather for the markets!
From there it is just a 2 h busride back to Quito where I arrange some stuff for my return flight and buy this and that or might go on a last daytrip tomorrow.
Hope some of you enjoyed reading a bit, and of course details can be asked after my return on the 3rd of November (including one or the other picture). Please feel free to contact me! On the other hand if you are not interested in future reports please let me know as well and I can delete you from the list. Cheers, Gunther
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